“True seams: modeling seams in digital garments” by Rodríguez and Cirio

  • ©Alejandro Rodríguez and Gabriel Cirio




    True seams: modeling seams in digital garments



    Seams play a fundamental role in the way a garment looks, fits, feels and behaves. Seams can have very different shapes and mechanical properties depending on how fabric is overlapped, folded and stitched together, with garment designers often choosing specific seam and stitch type combinations depending on the appearance and behavior they want for the garment. Yet, virtually all 3D CAD tools for fashion and visual effects ignore most of the visual and mechanical complexity of seams, and just treat them as joint edges, their simplest possible form, drastically limiting the fidelity of digital garments. In this paper, we present a method that models seams following their true, real-life construction. Each seam brings together and overlaps the fabric pieces to be sewn, folds the fabric according to the type of seam, and stitches the resulting assembly following the type of stitch. To avoid dealing with the complexities of folding in 3D space, we cast the problem into a sequence of simpler 2D problems where we can easily shape the seam and produce a result free of self-intersections, before lifting the folded geometry back to 3D space. We run a series of constrained optimizations to enforce spatial properties in these 2D settings, allowing us to treat asymmetric seams, gatherings and overlapping construction orders. Using a variety of common seams and stitches, we show how our approach substantially improves the visual appearance of full garments, for a better and more predictive digital replica.


    1. Assembil. 2013. How patterns work: The fundamental principles of pattern making and sewing in fashion design. Createspace Independent Publishing Platform.Google Scholar
    2. Aric Bartle, Alla Sheffer, Vladimir G. Kim, Danny M. Kaufman, Nicholas Vining, and Floraine Berthouzoz. 2016. Physics-driven pattern adjustment for direct 3D garmentediting. ACM Transactions on Graphics (Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH) 35, 4 (2016).Google Scholar
    3. Floraine Berthouzoz, Akash Garg, Danny M. Kaufman, Eitan Grinspun, and Maneesh Agrawala. 2013. Parsing sewing patterns into 3D garments. ACM Transactions on Graphics (Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH) 32, 4 (2013).Google Scholar
    4. Remi Brouet, Alla Sheffer, Laurence Boissieux, and Marie-Paule Cani. 2012. Design preserving garment transfer. ACM Transactions on Graphics (Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH) 31, 4 (2012).Google Scholar
    5. J. Chung. 1999. The effect of assembly methods of a garment on fabric drape. Ph.D. Dissertation. Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University.Google Scholar
    6. Gabriel Cirio, Jorge Lopez-Moreno, David Miraut, and Miguel A. Otaduy. 2014. Yarn-level simulation of woven cloth. ACM Transactions on Graphics (Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH Asia) 33, 6 (2014).Google Scholar
    7. Gabriel Cirio, Jorge Lopez-Moreno, and Miguel A. Otaduy. 2017. Yarn-Level Cloth Simulation with Sliding Persistent Contacts. IEEE Transactions on Visualization and Computer Graphics 23, 2 (2017), 1152–1162.Google ScholarDigital Library
    8. Jonathan Cohen, Amitabh Varshney, Dinesh Manocha, Greg Turk, Hans Weber, Pankaj Agarwal, Frederick Brooks, and William Wright. 1996. Simplification envelopes. In Proceedings of the 23rd annual conference on Computer graphics and interactive techniques. 119–128.Google ScholarDigital Library
    9. Eitan Grinspun, Anil N. Hirani, Mathieu Desbrun, and Peter Schröder. 2003. Discrete Shells. In Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH/Eurographics Symposium on Computer Animation. Eurographics Association, 62–67.Google ScholarDigital Library
    10. JL Hu and Siuping Chung. 2000. Bending Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Vertical Seams. Textile Research Journal 70 (02 2000), 148–153.Google Scholar
    11. J. Hu, S. Chung, and M. Lo. 1997. Effect of seams on fabric drape. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 9 (3 1997), 220–227.Google Scholar
    12. Liang Hu, Jinlianand Ma, George Baciu, Wingo Sai-Keung Wong, and Weiyuan Zhang. 2006. Modelling Multi-layer Seam Puckering. Textile Research Journal 76, 9 (2006), 665–673.Google ScholarCross Ref
    13. Yuki Igarashi, Takeo Igarashi, and Hiromasa Suzuki. 2008. Automatically adding seam allowance to cloth pattern. In ACM SIGGRAPH 2008 Posters.Google ScholarDigital Library
    14. S. Inui, H. Okabe, and T. Yamaraka. 2001. Simulation of seam pucker on two strips of fabric sewn together. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 13 (02 2001), 53–64.Google Scholar
    15. S. Inui and T. Yamaraka. 1998. Seam pucker simulation. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 13, 2 (1998), 128–142.Google ScholarCross Ref
    16. ISO 4915:1991. 1991. Textiles – Stitch types – Classification and terminology. Standard. International Organization for Standardization, Geneva, CH.Google Scholar
    17. ISO 4916:1991. 1991. Textiles – Seam types – Classification and terminology. Standard. International Organization for Standardization, Geneva, CH.Google Scholar
    18. Yamini Jhanji. 2018. Computer-aided design – garment designing and patternmaking. In Automation in Garment Manufacturing, Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye (Eds.). Woodhead Publishing, 253 — 290.Google Scholar
    19. Michael Keckeisen, Matthias Feurer, and Markus Wacker. 2004. Tailor Tools for Interactive Design of Clothing in Virtual Environments. In Proceedings of the ACM Symposium on Virtual Reality Software and Technology. ACM, 182–185.Google ScholarDigital Library
    20. Minchen Li, Alla Sheffer, Eitan Grinspun, and Nicholas Vining. 2018. Foldsketch: Enriching Garments with Physically Reproducible Folds. ACM Trans. Graph. 37, 4, Article 133 (jul 2018), 13 pages.Google ScholarDigital Library
    21. Shufang Lu, P.Y. Mok, and Xiaogang Jin. 2017. A new design concept: 3D to 2D textile pattern design for garments. Computer-Aided Design 89 (2017), 35 — 49.Google ScholarDigital Library
    22. Liang Ma, Jinlian Hu, and George Baciu. 2006. Generating Seams and Wrinkles for Virtual Clothing. In Proceedings of the 2006 ACM International Conference on Virtual Reality Continuum and Its Applications (VRCIA). 205–211.Google ScholarDigital Library
    23. Takashi Maekawa. 1999. An overview of offset curves and surfaces. Computer-Aided Design 31, 3 (1999), 165–173.Google ScholarCross Ref
    24. Yuwei Meng, Charlie C.L. Wang, and Xiaogang Jin. 2012. Flexible shape control for automatic resizing of apparel products. Computer-Aided Design 44, 1 (2012), 68 — 76.Google ScholarDigital Library
    25. Juan Montes, Bernhard Thomaszewski, Sudhir Mudur, and Tiberiu Popa. 2020. Computational Design of Skintight Clothing. ACM Transactions on Graphics (Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH) 39, 4 (2020).Google Scholar
    26. Fatemeh Mousazadegan, Siamak Saharkhiz, and Masoud Latifi. 2012. Prediction of tension seam pucker formation by finite-element model. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 24 (06 2012), 129–140.Google ScholarCross Ref
    27. Simon Pabst, Sybille Krzywinski, Andrea Schenk, and Bernhard Thomaszewski. 2008. Seams and Bending in Cloth Simulation. In Workshop in Virtual Reality Interactions and Physical Simulation (VRIPHYS). 31–38.Google Scholar
    28. Jianbo Peng, Daniel Kristjansson, and Denis Zorin. 2004. Interactive Modeling of Topologically Complex Geometric Detail. In ACM SIGGRAPH 2004 Papers (Los Angeles, California) (SIGGRAPH ’04). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 635–643.Google Scholar
    29. Binh Pham. 1992. Offset curves and surfaces: a brief survey. Computer-Aided Design 24, 4 (1992), 223–229.Google ScholarCross Ref
    30. Serban D Porumbescu, Brian Budge, Louis Feng, and Kenneth I Joy. 2005. Shell maps. ACM Transactions on Graphics (TOG) 24, 3 (2005), 626–633.Google ScholarDigital Library
    31. Xavier Provot. 1995. Deformation Constraints in a Mass-Spring Model to Describe Rigid Cloth Behaviour. In Proceedings of Graphics Interface (GI). 147–154.Google Scholar
    32. Scott Roland, Mathew D. Janda, and Charles Lowry. 2015. Implementation of Modeling and Simulation of Textile Seam and Joints for Parachute Design Applications. In Aerodynamic Decelerator Systems Technology Conferences.Google Scholar
    33. Jos Stam. 1998. Evaluation of loop subdivision surfaces. In Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH 98.Google Scholar
    34. Kara Sukran. 2020. Comparison of sewn fabric bonding rigidities obtained by heart loop method: effects of different stitch types and seam directions. Industria Textila 71, 2 (2020), 105–111.Google ScholarCross Ref
    35. Nobuyuki Umetani, Danny M. Kaufman, Takeo Igarashi, and Eitan Grinspun. 2011. Sensitive Couture for Interactive Garment Modeling and Editing. ACM Transactions on Graphics (Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH) 30, 4 (2011).Google Scholar
    36. Pascal Volino, Nadia Magnenat-Thalmann, and François Faure. 2009. A simple approach to nonlinear tensile stiffness for accurate cloth simulation. ACM Transactions on Graphics 28, 4 (2009).Google ScholarDigital Library
    37. Huamin Wang. 2018. Rule-free sewing pattern adjustment with precision and efficiency. ACM Transactions on Graphics (Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH) 37, 4 (2018).Google Scholar
    38. Katja Wolff, Philipp Herholz, and Olga Sorkine-Hornung. 2019. Reflection Symmetry in Textured Sewing Patterns. In Vision, Modeling and Visualization. The Eurographics Association.Google Scholar
    39. Katja Wolff and Olga Sorkine-Hornung. 2019. Wallpaper Pattern Alignment along Garment Seams. ACM Transactions on Graphics (Proceedings of ACM SIGGRAPH) 38, 4 (2019).Google Scholar
    40. Yunchu Yang. 2014. Investigating Seamed Woven Fabric Drape Using Experimental and Virtual Approaches. Fibers and Polymers 15 (10 2014), 2217–2224.Google Scholar

ACM Digital Library Publication: